Shuyskie rocks - uVisitRussia

Shuyskie rocks

Shuyskie rocks are located near the station Shuiskaya about 20 km. from the city. It is convenient to get there by train, bus or car. From the station to the rocks about 40 - 50 minutes of travel. First, from the fork of the highway next to the railway station, to the left along the asphalt road to the gas pipeline, then along the country road that runs along the pipe to the left to the distribution point, from here to the right a trail marked with blue paint leaves into the forest. Under the rocks are comfortable parking lots. The rocks are used for training tourists, speleologists, rescuers and climbers for many years, and are an excellent training ground for rock skills.

The height of the massif in the main part is up to 20 meters, the length of some climbing routes is up to 15 meters. Most of the main array with the most interesting and difficult climbing routes was cleared relatively recently - in 1994. However, due to low location (Shuyskie rocks are a fault in the earth's surface) and a huge amount on the rocks, moss and lichens, a constant cleaning of the rocks is required.

The array is characterized by strongly dissected, destroyed relief, with a lot of overhangs, cornices and positive mirrors, which are of great interest for climbers of any level of preparation.

Historically, these rocks were mastered by the Karelian public for a long time. Sports climbing history began relatively recently, in the early 90's. It was then that our representatives began to systematically go out to such climbing centers as the Crimea, Moscow, and St. Petersburg. Acquaintance with the basic principles of this sport occurred exactly there. There, in communication with the best representatives of the climbing world, an understanding of aesthetics, psychology and tactics of rock climbing, as an independent sport, was very different from the views prevailing in the tourist environment.

Then, on the basis of the experience of passing numerous classical climbing routes of various categories of complexity in such a mecca, rock climbing, like the Crimea, were cleaned of living rocks and moss, the first climbing tracks on Shuyskie rocks, set in accordance with the norms and categories adopted in rock climbing, were developed and passed.

Since that time, climbing in Karelia, and Shuyskie rocks, as the main training site for Petrozavodsk climbers has been going through various times. The number of rocky threads is constantly increasing, their complexity is increasing, and the development of new types of climbing in the world; Driftling - rock routes, passed in winter conditions with the help of ice tools, did not pass by our city.

Since 2000, many climbing routes in this promising technique have been passed on our rocks, violating the canons and greatly pushing the limits and limits. With the help of this technique, the scale of the difficulties of climbing and ice-climbing routes in large mountains has greatly increased. And the aesthetics, value and sportiness of this kind of climbing puts it on a par with classical climbing and very popular lately bouldering. 

The array of Shuyskie rocks - for the convenience of orientation and description, is divided into several sectors, divided on the terrain by corridors and marked landmarks. The total length of the massif is about 150 meters.

Sector "A" is the leftmost part of the array when viewed from the bottom. In the very left part, the rocks are strongly destroyed, covered with moss and grass, their height, gradually comes to naught. From Sector B, on the right, it is separated by a depression and a moss that is overgrown with a moss, along which a large number of winter routes pass, and at present a simple climbing route "Shershe lya Fam". Sector A in the main part has a very interesting relief with a slight overhang on the lower tier and a cornice in the upper part. Height is up to 18 meters. Cornice in the form of a ceiling on the right side is an excellent landmark. The characteristic mirror under it, is characterized by a technical and accurate climbing in winter conditions, and in the summer pulls on the category. This area of ​​rocks, overgrown with moss, has not been cleaned up to now, it is possible that there are still a lot of new complex tracts in the winter, and after a thorough cleansing, then climbing routes in the summer.

Sector "B" is the central and most developed part of the cliffs. The left borders with sector A, on the right is separated from sector C by a deep couloir along which there is a simple winter route, and in the summer sometimes beginners climb. This is the highest part of the Shuyskie rocks. The first technical routes were passed here, after a thorough cleansing of the moss, and badly lying stones, in 1994, unfortunately, since then they have been thoroughly overgrown, but they still allow us to conduct purposeful rock climbing exercises.

Sector "C" - a magnificent site of rocks, characterized by a pronounced huge cornice, located along the entire length of the sector. On the left and on the right, it is highlighted by deep couloirs, the lower part, sometimes simple and positive, sometimes overhanging, and difficult. Cornice in the middle of the stunning. There is an old bolt track, punched for training climbers and speleologists. All the routes that have now been traversed along the cornice, are tied to cracks and faults, the passage of the eaves is possible, but it is still waiting for its pioneers, such options will be drawn to higher climbing categories. This section of rocks is the most complex, and it has great climbing prospects, provided the skill of future athletes grows.

Sector "D" is the most right-hand part of Shuyskie rocks, on the left there is a couloir with several trees, on the right side there is the main trail to the top of the rocks. The positive relief with various slots is simple, but from the left to the right the monolithic nature of the rocks increases, the cornice appears from below and the routes on the right side of the sector are of interest now. Once it was the main site for climbing and competitions, recently with an increase in the overall level of skill, rock climbers are almost never used, and gradually grow overgrown with moss.

All that is on the right, separated, from "Sector C" a large internal angle with growing trees, when that was of great interest. Positive monolithic rocky forehead with a small cornice in the lower part, is dissected by numerous cracks. A simple route "Bicycle" was popular before. In winter, this area of ​​rocks is covered with snow, in some years firn, now, often, is passed, in the technique of draining. In summer, all interest in climbing in modern conditions is concentrated in sectors A, B, C. The first ascents of the main rock routes were made in the 90's. The assessment of the complexity was made on the basis of a large number of difficult classical routes traversed in the Crimea and partly in Karelia on the cliffs of Hiytola and Lake Yastrebinoi.