Ivolginsky datsan is a Buddhist Monastery Complex near Ulan-Ude

A visit to the Ivolginsky Datsan is a mandatory element of all tourist trips around Buryatia. The Ivolginsky Datsan is known as the “center of Russian Buddhism,” which magnetically affects tourists. And it is conveniently located: from Ulan-Ude - 30-40 kilometers, to the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga. The datsan is just on the outskirts, behind it there are only bushes twined with colorful ribbons of wind horse flag, a plain overgrown with herbs and foothills of Khamar Daban.

People far from Buddhism expect to see something exotic and, admittedly, they get their share of exotic things. Not so much time is usually allotted for the excursion, and it is easier to obediently follow the guide's instructions - bypass the territory in the course of the sun, spin clockwise prayer drums hurde, take photos against the backdrop of bright, almost toy temples, buy souvenirs in temples and in a small market. Out of the corner of your eye, you can see absolutely Russian huts, smiling monks in red and pilgrims who surrounded the suburgans. In the end, everyone is happy. Approximately as foreigners who visited Suzdal - nothing is clear, but beautiful.

We still try, without pretending to the highest wisdom, to tell the main language in accessible language. About Buddhism in Russia, despite its fairly widespread distribution, we know frankly little.

For a start it is worth deciding on the meaning of the word "datsan". Datsan is not a temple, but a monastery, optionally including also a Buddhist university. At the same time, the unofficial title of the “center of Russian Buddhism” does not mean that the Ivolginsky Datsan is the main Buddhist monastery in Russia. Like the Orthodox, there is no “main monastery”, so the Buddhists do not have it either. If we continue the analogy, the ROC has the most significant and respected abode, the Trinity-Sergius Lavra. Unofficially. Similarly, among Buddhists, the Ivolginsky Datsan is considered the most authoritative and powerful monastery, but without official titles. True, unlike the same laurel, the datsan in the Verkhnyaya Ivolga cannot be called neither the biggest nor any ancient.

There are several reasons why the Ivolginsky Datsan became “the first among equals”. This is the first datsan opened in Soviet times, in 1945. The year of the end of the Great Patriotic War explains a lot - during the war, Stalin did not just “slow down” with repressions against believers, it was a period of frank relief: the country needed any help, including spiritual help. Material assistance was also very welcome, believers of all denominations collected money and donated valuables for the needs of the front. Buryat Buddhists collected 350 thousand rubles, a large amount in those days. It is believed that in gratitude for the assistance of the Soviet leadership and allowed to open datsan.

Restore the previously existing datsans did not, Ivolginsky built "in an open field." Thus appeared the only legal center of Buddhism in the USSR. Not in Kalmykia (by the time Kalmyks were deported to Siberia and Central Asia) and not in Tuva, which only became part of the USSR in 1944. The first "Soviet" datsan appeared in Buryatia, to which there were no special complaints. So it happened that for several decades the Ivolginsky Datsan was just the only one of its kind in the whole country.

To this day, the Ivolginsky Datsan is the residence of Pandito Khambo Lama, the head of Russian Buddhists, although it is more correct to say "the head of the Buddhist Traditional Sangha of Russia" - one of many sanghs (communities). There are no analogies with Orthodoxy here. However, the shrine of the Buryat people and the main relic of Russian Buddhists - the incorruptible body of XII Pandito Hambo Lama Dashi-Dorjo Itigelova (1852 - 1927) are kept in the Ivolginsky datsan. And here you can draw a very conditional parallel with the relics of Christian saints as an object of worship. It is also conditional because in Buddhism the attainment of the imperishability of the body is a rare phenomenon, and in the case of Itigelov, inexplicable in general, having nothing in common with posthumous mummification.

The body of the Imperishable is kept in the Palace - perhaps the most elegant structure of the monastery. The Palace of Hambo Lama Itigelova - dugan (temple), recreated in 2008 from photographs. The “original” dugan was built in 1906 with the participation of Itigelov himself and was located in the Yangazhinsky datsan, destroyed in 1954.

Immediately make a reservation: access to the Imperishable is strictly limited. Believers can see Itigelov only 8 times a year, during the main Buddhist holidays. Then his body is transferred to the main temple of the datsan - Sogchen-Dugan, where everyone can bow to it.

The rest of the time the Imperishable does not leave his palace, and it is possible to get to it only “by agreement” - as a rule, for VIPs, representatives of delegations, journalists make an exception. If you find yourself among the lucky few who are admitted to the shrine, remember: taking pictures inside the palace is strictly prohibited. Before visiting you will be obliged to instruct exactly how to behave in a sacred place.

Khambo Lama Itigelov sits on a dais, behind double glass, in the same lotus position, in which he went to Nirvana in 1927, in which he was buried in a cedar box, in which he was removed from the ground 75 years later, according to the will of Itigelov himself, and transferred to Ivolginsky datsan. Before the dais is the altar, where you should put the Hadak - a ritual scarf, a symbol of hospitality, purity and unselfishness of the giver. Before that, it is really worth clearing the mind of vain thoughts and thinking about the most cherished. They say that if the desire is sincere and deep, it will surely come true. We also thought about the secret - a respectful silence in the dugan has to this - and since then we have been hoping for the fulfillment of the wishes made. On the other hand, do not confuse the Imperishable with Santa Claus. We have received so much from this visit - the blessing of Bimba Lama, the guardian of Itigelov’s body, will forever remain one of the most amazing memories.

Friendliness and warmth towards all visitors, regardless of their faith, is perhaps the main feature of a Buddhist monastery for a non-Buddhist: peace here is spread in the air in high concentrations. Buddhism is one of the oldest world religions, and for 2500 years it remains the most peaceful. Any person can ask for blessings, advice, help from any lama. In the datsan, the lamas-astrologers will talk about the future, the lamas-healers will advise on health issues, and the third can be asked about customs and rituals. Each lama, if we speak in modern language, has its own "specialization". To navigate and find the right llama, just ask any monk in the temple.

Since 1991, the Dashi Choinhorlin Buddhist University has been operating under the Ivolginsky Temple. It occupies a long wooden house and several small buildings on the territory of the monastery. Students - there are about a hundred people - are studying in four faculties: philosophical, tantric, medical and iconographic. The working day lasts from 7 am to 9 pm, classes are taught by, among others, teachers from Buddhist monasteries in India. The term of study is 5 years, after graduation graduates receive a diploma and “title” of the lama, that is, a religious teacher. After graduating from university, the most capable lamas go to India, where they have been studying for another 16 years to get the title of "Geshe", in our opinion - a candidate of philosophical sciences.

Everyone has the opportunity to join the university classes. On Saturdays and Sundays from 15:00 to 17:00 in the assembly hall of the university, teachers give lectures to anyone who wants to learn more about the teachings of the Buddha.

On the territory of the Ivolginsky Datsan there are 10 temples and 5 sacred sturgans. The architecture of the stupas is very ancient, they began to be erected in India before the Buddha, initially as monuments-mounds on the graves of the rulers. Later, stupas began to symbolize the most important sacred events of Buddhism, and they are no less revered than temples.

In addition to the temples (dugans and sumee), stupas, suburgans and the university, there are a summer hotel, a museum of monuments of Buddhist art, a greenhouse with a sacred Bodhi tree, aviarys with roe deer, lamas houses and office buildings on the territory of the Ivolginsky Datsan. And this is surprising, since outside the territory of the monastery on the rural outskirts does not seem so roomy at all. But it is necessary to go beyond the gate - and the Ivolginsky Datsan again turns into a tiny fabulous village in the middle of a monotonous plain.

LOCAL FEATURES

The Buryat name of the Ivolginsky Datsan, Toges Bayasgalantay Ulzy Nomey Khordyn Hiid, is translated as “a monastery A wheel of learning, bringing happiness and full of joy.”

10 temples of the Ivolginsky Datsan:
- Sogchen Dugan (main Cathedral Church), built in November 1976. This is a classic example of the Buryat Sogchen, in accordance with the tradition established in the middle of the XIX century. In front of the entrance are brightly painted sculptures of lions of a completely Chinese look - indeed, this tradition was borrowed in China, such lions are always placed in front of the entrance to the main temple. In the altar part of the dugan there is a large sculpture of Buddha Shakyamuni, the temple itself is incredibly richly decorated, including very valuable thangkas - images made on silk.
- Choira Dugan "Toysam Shaddublin" Faculty of Philosophy Choira. This is the very first Sogchen dugan, built in 1947-1948.
- Devagen Dugan (or sumee), a two-story adobe building built in the 1970s. Tourists are often brought here. Here you can take pictures and not at all ashamed to buy souvenirs at the exit. For example, a magnet with the image of a deity or mandala.
- Jude Dugan, tantric dugan built in 2001.
- Sakhuusan Sumee, a square-shaped wooden dugan, built in 1986 and dedicated to dharmapalam - the deities defending the Buddhist teachings and each individual Buddhist.
- Maidari Sumee, a small wooden temple of Buddha Maitreya, built in the 1970s.
- Maanin Dugan. In this temple, prayers are held every day for the benefit of all living beings. Maanin Dugan can be easily found for one thing: in front of him there are aviarys with roe deer. According to legend, when Buddha Shakyamuni first gave the teachings to his five disciples, two roe deers came out of the forest and, kneeling, listened to the teachings. Since then, roe deer is considered a symbol of listening to the Teaching.
- Nogon Dari Ehen Sumee - a temple dedicated to the deity Green Tara, "Savior."
- Gunrik Dugan, Temple of the Buddha Vairochana.
- Etigele Hambo Lamyn Ordon (Palace of Hambo Lama Itigelov).

The building of the university and the houses of llamas are more like ordinary village huts, only painted in incredibly bright colors. Multicolour is one of the traditions of Buddhism.

In the datsan there is a sculpture “Little Buddha” by the famous sculptor Dasha Namdakov.

At the entrance to the datsan there is a cafe where you can taste dishes of the Buryat cuisine, for example, poses - huge juicy “dumplings”, more reminiscent of manti or khinkali than microscopic ravioli. Also on the territory of the monastery and in front of the main entrance are souvenir rows.

No need to be afraid of monks and llamas, they are everywhere. The request to “take a photo together” is unlikely to be refused, but there is no point in experiencing Buddhist friendliness either, show respect. By the way, unlike Tibetan Buddhism, in Buryatia (and Kalmykia) the stress in the word "lama" falls on the last syllable.

Customs, Traditions and Behavioral Tips

If you come to a datsan without an accompanying person, you need to know a few rules from the “code of conduct” in a Buddhist monastery. They, by the way, are hung out at the entrance to the territory of the Ivolginsky Datsan.

All the gates of a datsan consist of three parts - the central entrance, which is usually opened only on major holidays, and two "gates", right and left. It is necessary to enter the territory through the left gate, and not to break into the central gate.

Examine the territory of the datsan should be "from left to right", walking along the path along the sun. Such a circular circuit is called “goroo”, this is a peculiar rite of purification. Non-Buddhists, this rule is also useful, makes some systematization in the inspection process. Ignorant people usually rush from dugans to stupas, from stupas to llamas' houses, skipping a lot of details and, in fact, a meaning.

Near the temples, in the course of the movement, prayer drums-Khurde, filled with texts of Lama prayers, are installed. Hurde need to "twist" strictly clockwise. This action is considered equivalent to perfect prayer. You can also pray with the help of the wind horse flags, pieces of cloth, consecrated by a llama, with your name and the text of the prayer. They are tied in a multitude to the bushes and trees surrounding the datsan, each waving of the wind horse flag in the wind is also considered a prayer.

You can go to all open temples. Non-Buddhists are allowed to attend prayers, which in the Ivolginsky datsan usually begin at 9 am and last about one and a half hours. During the prayer service, people sit down along the walls on low benches. It is recommended to leave in the temples offerings - money or food (usually milk or sweets).

On the territory of the monastery you can not smoke, litter and foul language, it goes without saying. It is advisable for women not to wear miniskirts, though, if the other is not at all, none of the datsan will drive them out. Inside the temples, it is recommended to take off hats, remove bags and backpacks from the shoulders, take them in hands or leave them at the entrance - again, for non-Buddhists this is only a recommendation.

When visiting temples you cannot turn your back to the statues of the Buddha and the saints, you cannot point your finger at them (this will not be easy). Being in the temples during prayers, you should not cross your arms or legs. At the exit in each temple is Arshan, a vessel with holy water. It should be taken with the right hand, pour some water into the left, take three sips, and apply the rest of the moisture on the head. However, non-Buddhists do not necessarily follow this rule.

Pay attention to the plates with the image of a crossed-out camera. In the universal language of symbols, this means that photography is prohibited. And this is perhaps the only strict ban on the territory of the datsan.

For advice on which lama to contact on a specific issue, it is better to go to the main temple, Sogchen Dugan. And if you just had a desire to talk “for life”, you can turn to any priest. After the conversation, the lama should be thanked with money - there is no fixed amount, but you should not be greedy.

Events and holidays

In one of eight days a year, when anyone can see Itigelov's imperishable body, we do not recommend coming in the morning, at this time in the datsan is very crowded. Most pilgrims disperse about 16 hours, this is the most peaceful time for "communication" with the lama.

Every year, in the Ivolginsky datsan, large autumn and winter hurals (festive rituals) are held, in the summer - the Maydari festival in honor of Maitreya's bodisattva - a symbol of love, hope for the future and compassion. Maitreya is the coming Master of Humanity, the Bodhisattva and the Buddha of the new world of the Satya-yuga era. The festive ceremony lasts for several days and ends with a solemn procession of believers around the temple. At the head of the procession, a statue of Maitreya, accompanied by a llama, is hoisted onto the chariot.

A three-day spiritual ceremony (retreat) is held every month in Maanin Dugan, in which everyone can take part. For three days the participants of the retreat spend the night in the houses of lamas, recite mantras, and bow down. Before embarking on the practice, everyone takes a vow not to kill, not to lie, not to eat, not to drink alcohol, to be silent. The purpose of the ritual is to be cleansed of evil and to learn to sympathize with all kinds of living beings, which are six in Buddhism - the inhabitants of hell, hungry spirits, animals, people, demigods and gods.

Major Buddhist Holidays
Dugzhuba (ritual of purification). It is held the day before the New Year.
Buddhist New Year - White Month Holiday, or Sagaalgan.
15 Wonders of the Buddha (Monlam Chhenmo). Immediately after the New Year, prayers dedicated to 15 miracles performed by the Buddha are read for 15 days.
Kalachakra festival (Duinhor-Hural). The three-day celebrations are connected with the beginning of the sermon by the Buddha Kalachakra Tantra, the foundations of the Vajrayana philosophy. Kalachakra literally means “the wheel of time” and is one of the most esoteric concepts of Buddhist tantra.
Birthday, Enlightenment and Care in the Nirvana Buddha. The main holiday of Buddhists.
Dalai Lama Birthday (July 6). This is the only Buddhist holiday, which is celebrated on the European calendar.
The rotation of Maitreya (Maidari-Hural). The holiday is dedicated to the coming to the land of Maitreya, the future Buddha.
Buddha descent from the sky Tushita to Earth / Feast of Lights.
The day of departure to Nirvana Je Tsongkhapa (Zula-hural).

What to bring from the Ivolginsky Datsan

In addition to items with Buddhist symbols, which are sold in temples, and in a souvenir shop at the entrance to the datsan, and in a small souvenir market, local merchants can buy wonderful items of felt and wool - shawls, mittens, socks, warm slippers ... Most of them were produced not in Buryatia, but in the neighboring fraternal Mongolia. Prices are humane, although saleswomen will not miss their advantage either. Bargaining is appropriate.

Join our tours and take a look at this amazing attraction:
www.uvisitrussia.com/day-tours/tours-to-ulan-ude/